(This is a continuation of the last blog. For some reason, that particular blog decided to not let me post pictures and comments the way I wanted to post them. So to continue....)
Saturday, we visited the Estonian Historical Museum, housed in a large old estate on the outskirts of the town (beyond Kadriorg). There was a new'special' exhibit that focused on Estonian history and liberation called 'A will to be free'.
For those of you who are not familiar with Estonian history, Estonians have been frequently over-run, conquered and made part of larger national empires- including Sweden, Germany and most recently the Soviet Union. However, Estonia, along with the two other Baltic nations were able to gain freedom peacefully, through song and dances that expressed their political desires, energy and identity. At one point the people of the Baltic nations stood, holding hands in a human line that stretched from Tallinn to Vilnius (we have been to the location of both ends of this line). In the museum, there were photographs of those people standing hand in hand, connecting all three nations. Standing so their desire for identity and independence could be visible to the rest of the world. And this peaceful 'singing' revolution worked (they were also aided by the fact that the Soviet Union was collapsing internally). It was moving to see old film footage of song festivals and flag raisings and be told the story of their national liberation.
But it also raised many questions for me. What can a nation do to keep the spirit and excitement of newly won freedom alive and vibrant? I work with colleagues here who were part of this revolution. They are proud of their new reclaimed identity and the excitement and meaning for them is visceral. But what will happen in three generations? Will that gentle spirit be kept alive or will it harden or even become exclusive and turn against many of the minority groups that also live here.
As a Jew, I can relate to the longing for a 'homeland' and place to feel autonomous and free. I know this to be a natural reaction to oppression and domination (or worse). Viewing the exhibit I remembered learning Israeli songs and dances as a child, which helped me feel connected and proud of my own heritage. But, I no longer see this desire for freedom, identity and nationhood in such simple terms. When I turn on the news today, I see different types of struggles for freedom- in Africa, the Middle East and other places. These struggles are bloody and innocent people are killed. Is this just about identity or freedom...or is it about something more? Perhaps control and power? I also see what is happening in Israel, and mourn the ways that safety and nationhood have put blinders on my own people's 'identity', so that they feel the need to treat others despicably.
I dont know the answers, but am struck by the many ways the need to be free and valued for who we are can, so easily, become harmful to others. Perhaps, as spring returns, better options will start to emerge. I hope so.
Bruce in front of our apartment door in Vilnius |
Bruce in Riga...more on Riga at a later date..... |
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