First our apartment is lovely. It is not too large, clean and very MODERN (the many who owns it is Finnish..so think light wood everything, blue and white color scheme and a bathroom that has its own sauna.) We are on the 5th floor so have a bit of a view and there are no big building across the street so we have a view of roofs, snow and a few of the big buildings of city center. So far I have found the closest market (local folks go there and there is actually a small shop that sells dried beans (yummy lentil soup is cooking as I type) and fresh veggies, cut rate bulk house supplies and around the corner a fish market with more types of smoked salmon than I could ever imagine.) We are also one bus ride away from a HUGE supermarket where I was able to buy cheap baskets, coffee filters and other less-Estonian basics. I love having dark dark rye Estonian bread for breakfast....while I stream NPR on my computer with my red candle glowing in the table. We also have a small fireplace, but I wont know how to use it until the landlord comes on Tuesday. All in all, the place is very cozy and even posh for us (I have gotten so used to basic amenities from our other journeys that Scandinavian-type basics seem opulent.)
I have also started to meet some of my colleagues. Yesterday I met the local Dance/Therapy teacher. We had a lovely chat in one of Tallinn's gigazillion coffee cafes (they have great coffee and most cafes have free wifi...and most people seem to hang out there- given that it is dark until almost 9 and gets dark again by 4:30, hanging out in a cafe with friends seems the way to go. This also makes sense because Estonians don't socialize by inviting people to their homes. So I met Helena and her two wonderful girls. She and I talked a bit, in a 'getting to know you' manner...sharing our stories and what we did in our work. She seemed great- very warm but matter of fact and practical..which I am told is typical for Estonians. We also walked through the old town, through the giant central square which still has an immense Christmas Tree (see photo), past the school buildings and to the water from to see the first International Fire Sculpture competition being held in Tallinn as part of their cultural celebrations.
It was cold, dark and snowy with a full strength wind that make the snow feel like crystals of glass on our faces. I went because someone I met at the airport (when I first arrived) had invited me to attend. The ceremony was impressive. The opening ritual included a processing in of a group of people singing a call & response chant while beating large drums. The sounds and rhythms reminded me of Native American ceremonies, but I was told that this was also typical of Estonian Shamanic rituals as well. They started by burning a large maze like mandala and then proceeded to the other entries one by one, as the drum continued to maintain a slow pulsating pace. If you don't know what I Fire Sculpture is (where have YOU been all your life????) it is something that is traditional in this region. We saw something similar in Lithuania as part of a winter festival 14 years ago. The basic idea is to build a large sculptural form of wood and straw which is then lit, to great wonder and excitement. In the competition there are additional requirement such as the sculpture having to change form or move in some way as it burns. Very wild and perfect for the dark cold night.
We stayed for a while and then, because it was cold, walked to the tram and then Helena offered to drive me to the large supermarket nearest me. I got things I needed for the apartment and was able to do it on one trip...since it was much more than I could carry by myself. (Such a wonderful generous act) I also got to ask lots of food questions...basically variations of: what is this in this package???? or where would mustard by shelved in Estonia, if it is not by the ketchup or mayonaise? I also have a huge package of toilet paper which should last us most of the time we are here. (My depression generation grandmother would both understand and be proud of me.)
So that is it so far. My next big projects are 1) starting to get the syllabi together for classes and 2) starting to work on my visa application- I just downloaded the 10 different documents (some for me and some for Bruce) to be completed. I am glad I have the next few weeks to work on the forms but they feel a bit overwhelming at this point. Luckily there are several folks I can ask if I need help.....
So until the next time....signing off.
I am going to try to import some photos....here they go (this is fun !!!!)
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| Raekoja plats- Old Town central square |
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| Fire Sculpture Festival with icy snow in photo |
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| view from our apartment window |
The view from your window looks amazing - makes me think of the Hanukah song ("In the window where you can see the glow from my menorah on newly fallen snow...") - and what a fascinating ritual! When you say the sculptures start as one thing and then, as they burn, morph into something else? How very cool!
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